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====== an indoorsman's <del>guide</del> primer for inedible oils ======

===== Bar Oil =====

a.k.a chainsaw oil, chainsaw bar oil. An oil like all this other motor oils, but with additional "tackifiers" so it can stick to the bar while being flung around in open air (as opposed to gears and engines, which are, of course, sealed)

===== WD40, the memetic universal lubricant =====

Kind of like how bar oil includes additives to stick, wd40 contains additives to penetrate and dilute - allowing grime to be removed. Good for rusty parts.

===== Motor Oil; ''x''W''y'' =====

''x'' and ''y'' are both viscosity **ratings**. The SAE rates how viscous an oil is, in a proprietary, evolving test. Whatever "10" corresponds to exactly, will not be explained by the first thousand pages of google results. (you'll have to read the engine's manual, or get an engineering degree.)

the "w" means "winter"...or maybe "warm"... anyway, 10W30 gets a 10 in winter conditions and 30 in warm.

==== 2-stroke vs 4-stroke ====

**yes**, there is a difference: 2-stroke oil is meant to be mixed with the gasoline and combusted, 4-stroke isn't.

==== car vs motorcycle ====

there **is** a difference - some smaller dirtbikes are 2-stroke, while all passenger cars are 4-stroke. However, even if a motorcycle is 4-stroke (as in the case of the 2024 kawasaki vulcan s abs), what's important is whether the bike has a "wet" or "dry" clutch - some motorcycles (e.g., my vulcan) have a "wet clutch", which just means that the clutch has oil. The same oil as the engine. Car oil has "friction modifiers" - certain additives that help it get better gas mileage and less bad emissions. those additives apparently wreck a motorcycle clutch. So wet clutches use *different* friction modifiers, according to the **JASO MA** standard.

tl;dr: unfortunately yes, you have to buy separate oil for a car and a bike
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